During our trip to California my husband and I decided to spend a night in Pacific Grove. Googling for lodging I found that the charming Lighthouse Lodge & Cottages had availability. Painted blue with a large lighthouse outside the office, it seemed to be waiting just for us. When you can only see one color, in my case blue, you cannot help but to be drawn to anything and everything wearing it. Our room was very nice, a welcome change from the chain hotels we often stay at. While I did a little unpacking, Mister Rain turned the air conditioner on. After a few minutes he said, “I’m going to the front desk. This thing is only blowing heat.” He returned shortly after. “Get this. They don’t have air conditioning here. They don’t need it. It is always in the 50s or 60s.” Amongst all our travels, this was a first.
We had asked the friendly front desk person for a casual, nearby dinner recommendation. Do you do this too? I think it may be my number 1 travel tip: ask the locals! The woman said that International Cuisine was just a few blocks away and they had the best clam chowder of any place she has ever been. My husband and I were both tired from a long drive on a day that had started very early, this eatery sounded perfect. And it was. This establishment offers food from all over the world, hence its name. I had lasagna as my entree and Mister Rain had spaghetti bolognese. Both were plentiful servings and delicious. I also had the clam chowder that I still think about six weeks later. With the windows open, the cool breeze coming in the screens while we ate was very enjoyable.
We followed our meal with ice cream at Lucy’s On Lighthouse. Nothing says vacation more than ice cream after dinner, regardless of how full you are. While there we asked the employees for a place to go for breakfast on the water. They were so kind and threw ideas around to each other before telling us to go to California Setzer Company.
The next morning after packing up and checking out of the Lighthouse, we headed to California Seltzer, located on the same street as MyLittle Pink House (click here for story). It was Mother’s Day and when we asked the hostess for a table for two outside, she presented me with a small bouquet of flowers. What a thoughtful, lovely gesture. We were seated along the glass partition directly across the road from the beach and the Pacific Ocean. The faithful California sun that we both had become addicted to warmed us, it was a little chilly by the Golden State’s reputation’s standards and I loved it. I am not a fan of the heat. People arrived in cars, parking along the opposite side of the street from the restaurant, removing chairs and towels before walking to the soft sand. In the few coastal towns we had already been to on our drive south on the Pacifc Coast Highway, I had noticed that a lot of people go to the beaches here to enjoy the natural beauty rather than to sunbathe, which is the norm for the Jersey shore I am familiar with. A couple at the table next to us spotted whales in the water, it felt like an abundance of riches.
I closed my eyes, giving thanks for another perfect moment on this adventure. I ordered a mimosa with my coffee, a tradition at breakfast while on vacation. When our beverages arrived my husband and I toasted our moms, both no longer with us in body but most definitely in spirit.
I hated to leave this spot but so much more awaited us. We drove around before continuing on towards our final destination of Los Angeles. I would be remiss in not telling you that Pacific Grove is nicknamed “Butterfly Town, U.S.A.” due to its annual monarch butterfly migration. Thousands of these butterflies arrive in October, clustering on trees like pine, cypress, and eucalyptus, staying through the winter months. This town has actively worked to protect the monarch habitat, establishing the Monarch Grove Sanctuary.
I first visited this area 30 years ago, it enchanted me from the start in a way that I cannot fully articulate. It felt Ike home, beyond the little pink house I had immediately fallen in love with. For quite a few years after my initial time here, I thought this was Monterey when in fact it is the very next town going south along the shore. This is not Monterey. It is Pacific Grove, a town so cool that no air conditioning is required.
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